The Unique Culinary Roots of Oaxaca

If you are looking to experience Mexican cooking closest to its indigenous roots, you will want to explore the cuisine of the large southwestern state of Oaxaca. Distinguished by its significant indigenous population—over half of the state’s population—Oaxaca offers a culinary heritage deeply rooted in traditional foodways. This segment of the population often resides in isolated, rural villages, some nearly off the grid. While this is largely due to institutional neglect by the Mexican government, it has allowed these communities to preserve their unique recipes, cooking techniques, and even ancient strains of produce, passed down through generations.

The Renowned Seven Moles

Oaxaca is perhaps best known for its seven moles, complex and flavorful sauces that have drawn serious foodies to the region in recent years. These sauces include ingredients such as chiles, nuts, seeds, herbs, spices, vegetables like tomatoes and onions, and additional flavorings, including chocolate. Each mole has its distinct flavor profile and complexity, making them an essential part of Oaxacan cuisine. These moles are often served with chicken, pork, or other meats, providing a unique culinary experience that stands out even among Mexican cuisine.

Distinctive Oaxacan Dishes

Even familiar Mexican staples take on different forms in Oaxaca. For example, tlayudas are giant, thin, toasted corn tortillas topped with a rich black-bean-and-pork-fat paste, shredded cabbage, quesillo (Oaxacan string cheese), and cooked meats such as Oaxacan-style chorizo or chile-rubbed pork. Empanadas in Oaxaca are made with fried corn dough rather than wheat and are often stuffed with ingredients such as squash blossoms.

Enjoying Local Beverages

To complement the rich and varied cuisine, Oaxacans offer beverages made from locally grown ingredients. Try hot or cold chocolate made from Oaxacan cocoa, or indulge in mezcal distilled from locally grown agave. These drinks capture the essence of the region’s agricultural bounty and are a fitting end to any meal in Oaxaca.